So your BMW has no air coming from its vents and/or the air is erratic. The most common problem is a faulty Final Stage Resistor aka (blower motor resistor or blower motor regulator). I will walk you through the steps of how to replace the final stage resistor.
The tools you'll need: long Phillips screw driver, long T20 torx (strongly recommend a magnetized tip to prevent pre and post cursing), flash light, needle nose pliers, flathead screw driver.
Step 1: Remove glove box by removing the 6 Phillips screws.
Step 2: Remove the lower tray behind the glove box.
Step 3: (some people like to remove the vent housing but its not necessary. Working around the vent is better than fighting the installation of the vent) Remove the stepper motor by releasing the two T20 torx screws, pull the stepper motor assembly out slightly and remove the linkage with needle nose pliers by twisting the pliers (see image). Unplug connector to stepper motor and move out of the way.
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Pull stepper motor assembly out to access the linkage arm
Step 4: Remove the two T20 torx screws from the final stage resistor (In most cases, the screws will be missing) Pry the black plastic clip back with a flathead screwdriver (see image) and pull out the resister. The resistor will sometimes fight you so try to wiggle and pull out the resistor simultaneously while prying back the black plastic clip.
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Use a flathead screwdriver to pry back on this plastic tab to release the final stage resistor from the HVAC case
Step 5: unplug resistor and install new resistor in reverse order
Final stage resister
P/n 64116920365
List price from dealer $120.00
Works with E46, E53, E85 and E83

Please comment if this helped you in any way, thank you.
 
 
So your low coolant (antifreeze) light came on and your coolant level is low. You have a leak, but where? BMWs have multiple components in their cooling systems and any of them could cause a leak, however the most common of coolant leaks are caused by a failed Coolant Temp Sensor located (in most cases) in the lower radiator hose
Checking the sensor for a leak is simple, just open your hood and look down at your lower radiator hose, find the sensor and you can see coolant remnants originating from the sides of the sensor and you should see a pool of coolant under the hose onto your lower engine panel.
Replacing the sensor can easily be accomplished by the average DIY guy, or gal. First step, make sure the cooling system is NOT hot! Open the reservoir aka (expansion tank) cap to relieve the pressure. Screw cap back on. (Putting cap back on is important if you don't want a mess) unplug connector, squeeze tabs and lift sensor out of radiator hose. Some coolant will come out but not much. Install new sensor (it comes with new O-Ring) and plug electrical connector into new sensor. Now you need to correct the coolant level (make sure not to overfill the system) Perform a cooling system pressure test to ensure no other leaks are present. Put on cap and clean off the spilled coolant with water. Your done!
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Electrical connector unplugged
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Removing faulty sensor from lower radiator hose
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Correcting coolant level with Factory OE BMW coolant
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Fluid level is correct when float reaches top (don't overfill for it can cause more leaks to occur)
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Pressure test to make sure no more leaks are present
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Coolant Temp Sensor Part number 13621433077
This is the coolant temp sensor that you will need to replace. Part Number is
13-62-1-433-077 and will cost about $30.00 from the dealership parts dept.
The same part is applicale for many modles including: E38 E39 E46 E52 E53 E60 E61 E63 E64 E64 E65 E66 E70 E70 E71 E72 E82 E83 E85 E86 E88 E90 E91 E92 E93 F01 F02 F04 F06 F07 F10 F12 F13 F30

 
 
With more cars going longer between oil changes it's important to have a quility oil filter. The cheap paper filters used at most of these quick stop oil change places can cost you more money then you ever thought possible. Too many times I hear stories of drain plugs being left loose or oil filters literally falling apart causing engine damage from the "in and out" lube stops.
During a BMW oil service I found this filter falling apart and of course it's a cheap filter from Poland with no brand name (I wouldn't want my name on it either)
Always ask your technician or Shop if they use OE filters and the recommended oil for your specific vehicle. The extra few bucks is well worth it!
 
 
When your iDrive controller knob is possessed an starts spinning on its own then it's time to get a new iDrive controller. The center console will need to be removed and partially disassembled to access the iDrive controller module. You can find a part number and price at http://www.realoem.com
(you will need the last 7 digits of your VIN)

I do not recommend you assume that the answer here directly relates to your BMW.
 
 

This 2006 BMW 650i had a warning message displayed for "adaptive headlamp malfunction" in the iDrive screen. This is the feature that auto levels the headlights and will move the light right or left during turning.




The adaptive headlamp stepper motor module located in the picture to the right was the culprit in this case. The average DIYer shouldn't have any troubles accessing this module. Peel back the inner fender liner and loosen the front corner of the bumper to access. (the bumper is removed in this picture)

When I removed the adaptive headlamp motor module the "cheese" was the obvious cause for failure. The Corrosion was caused by a failed seal that is intergrated with this module. I cleaned the connector to the headlight unit and replaced the module
The part number for the module is 63126939069. Both headlamps have the same part number and the price is around $230.00.
After replacing this module I recommend having the fault codes erased.
I do not recommend you assume that the answer here directly relates to your BMW.

If this post helped you out in any way or you would like to add to this topic please comment, Thank you
 

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